FRED VAN DYKE’S LONG ROAD TO ENLIGHTENMENT

Fred Van Dyke was a big-wave rider who, when the surf was up, longed to be on the beach, heading home, done for the day. He was a contest director who more or less hated surf competition. Surfing made his life. But Van Dyke said with a shrug and a remorseful chuckle, surfing ruined his life. Of the many things…