SHAUN TOMSON ON J-BAY: “THE CHOICES JUST OVERWHELM PEOPLE”

To get my Jeffreys fix yesterday, I called Shaun Tomson—a starting member on anybody’s best-ever J-Bay All-Star team—to talk about this amazing and surprisingly difficult wave.  *  *  *  Why are there so few great J-Bay surfers? The wave is so long, and everything looks so wide-open ahead of you, and the variables seem endless….