GARY GREEN’S BASTARD DESIRE FAIL

I wonder how long it took before Gary Green finally congratulated himself for sitting out the 1986 Billabong Pro. You pensioners out there—remember that contest? Waimea, mid-morning, clean, blue, huge and horrifying. The biggest surf ever seen, to this day, for a WCT event. Gary was on the beach watching, half mindfucked already from what he’d seen so far, when good…