PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND THE PSYCHOLOGY OF 20-FOOT SHOREBREAK

If my nerve would just double or triple in size, like the Grinch's heart after "Welcome Christmas" chimes up from Whoville, I'd be addicted to Puerto Escondido. I devoted 20 years to what we call the "shorebreak" at Ocean Beach, San Francisco (as distinct from the much better known outside sandbars), and Puerto is the same high-handed Dominatrix of a surf break, but on a larger scale. Much larger....

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