SOME THOUGHTS ON RACISM IN SURFING

Ala Moana parking lot, summer of 1984. Back when Buttons could pull off anything, including this mid-afternoon photo, shot by Warren Bolster, which head-fakes toward the worst kind of racism but is really just another riff in the nonstop improv comedy that was Buttons’ life at the time. Yes? Am I more or less on track? There are thoughtful, sensible people…