SURF NOIR: GARD CHAPIN’S MYSTERIOUS MEXICAN EXIT

Gard Chapin of Hollywood was California’s best surfer in the late 1930s and early ’40s. He took off deeper than anybody, angled harder, and probably invented the cutback. “He was fantastic.” Windansea regular Woody Ekstrom told writer David Rensin a few years back. “He’d drop his knee to the deck of his board, twist his body, and just whip…