ALOHA AND RIP WALLY FROISETH: 1919 - 2015

Wally Froiseth of Hawaii died last week, at home, age 95. He was one of the ax-wielding teenagers who hacked down the back end of their solid-wood planks in 1937, thus creating the hot curl, often referred to as surfing's original big-wave board. It was Wally, in fact, a day or two later, who shouted out that the new boards "really get you in the hot curl!" and the name stuck. Have a look at Shane...