WALLY FROISETH, BIG-WAVE PIONEER, 1919 – 2015

Wally Froiseth of Hawaii died last week, at home, at the fine old age of 95. He was one of the ax-wielding teenagers who hacked down the back end of their solid-wood planks in 1937, thus creating the big-wave surfboard. It was Wally, in fact, a day or two later, who shouted out that the new…