MIKE SALISBURY: “YOU HAD TO BE COOL TO KEEP FROM BEING KILLED BY THE COOL GUYS”

For 25 years now, give or take, the surfers I admire most are those who came to the sport early, loved it, still love it, but realized at some point that to build a life completely within surfing is basically retarded, and thus went further afield to create, experience, achieve. Bill Finnegan and Greg MacGillivray, for example. Joel…