LIFE BEFORE GOPRO: TEARS AND PAIN AND REVELATION

I fight the good fight, daily and skillfully, against nostalgia. Usually it’s not much of a contest. New boards and wetsuits are always better than what came before. The extended 10-day forecast has all but killed the surf trip skunk. In 2016, we have Bill Finnegan and Rory Parker, among others, to help articulate our wonderful fucked-up obsession. World tour contests are live-streamed…