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4/21/16

Whoops! That was supposed to read: “Encyclopedia of Surfing WRITER Wins Pulitzer!” Oh well, too late now. Like most other surfers, I was introduced to William Finnegan’s work by way of “Playing Doc’s Games,” his magisterial 1992 two-part New Yorker piece on Mark “Doc” Renneker and the still-underground San Francisco surf scene. Unlike most other surfers, however, I…

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