START WITH KIVLIN. PROCEED TO DORA, LOPEZ, CURREN

Bob Simmons, Joe Quigg, and Matt Kivlin overhauled surfboard design after World War II. Reasonable people may disagree, but by my reckoning what these three guys collectively did from 1945 to 1952 was a greater leap forward than the shortboard revolution. Kivlin, younger than the other two, was also the hottest surfer on the coast—tucked his back…