WAVE-SCIENTIST WILLARD BASCOM: MINING DIAMONDS, BEATING CANCER, DROPPING KNOWLEDGE

Big-wave pioneer Wally Froiseth knew better, but told this story anyway. “In the mid-’30s, when I was 15 years old, they were going to have a surf contest at Waikiki. The first day the waves were too small, so they brought a Kahuna down to the beach, right in front of the old Outrigger Canoe Club. I watched while he…