WAIMEA ’57: “WE FEW . . . WE SHIT-SCARED BUT HAPPY FEW”

Two weeks ago I gushed forth on how Riding Giants tweaked my whole understanding about how to present surf history. Dress it up, I said. Make it dance and sparkle—history need not be as dull and lifeless as a Mike Pence tailgate party. On the other hand, a little sparkle goes a long way. Dance with the…