WAIMEA ’57: “WE FEW . . . WE SHIT-SCARED BUT HAPPY FEW”

Two weeks ago I gushed forth on how Riding Giants tweaked my whole understanding about how to present surf history. Dress it up, I said. Make it dance and sparkle—history need not be as dull and lifeless as a Mike Pence tailgate party.

On the other hand, a little sparkle goes a long way. Dance with the truth, not away from it. I talked about how I love, in Giants, when director Stacy Peralta, for our brief but intense viewing pleasure, re-creates that famous Makaha-on-the-front-page newspa...