MIDGET ON THE 1964 TITLES: "I LIKE TO BE RELAXED AND CONFIDENT [BUT] I FELT ROTTEN."

Midget Farrelly wrote about his 1964 World Championships victory in his 1967 book The Surfing Life. It's an offbeat book, starting with the title page, which contains this single bleak line: "When you're comfortable, you're dead." Midget then hopscotches his way across the sport, with chapters on surf history, waves and beaches, tips for beginners, short profiles of surfing greats, and top surf br...