"Big Waves are Masculine. Women—Feminine," by Buzzy Trent, was originally published in the November 1963 issue of Surf Guide.

Girls do fine when it comes to housework, raising children, doing office work, doing the twist and even riding the ankle snappers at Malibu. With the light board era, more and more girls started surfing, and I'm glad to see it. I hope to see more. In fact, I hope to see my daughter surfing some day. Surfing builds strong bodies, gives good posture and cleans and refreshes the mind; it’s certainly much better than drinking in taverns or walking the street.

I enjoy watching girls surf. There’s nothing more beautiful than a well-shaped girl riding a six-foot wave with the wind blowing through her hair. But one thing I can’t stand is girls riding (or attempting to ride) big waves. Why? Well, girls are intended to be feminine, and big-wave riding is definitely masculine. You see, girls are much more emotional than men and therefore have a greater tendency to panic. And panic can be extremely dangerous in big surf. I have seen exactly three women in the past who had taken off on big waves and then panicked. There is nothing in the world more ridiculous than a girl who dares to show off and then panics out. Girls are weaker than men and have a lesser chance for survival in giant wipeouts. Girls are better off and look more feminine riding average-sized waves.

I’ve seen many girls surfing ... in fact, I know one or two who surf better than many men. Each girl surfer has her own style. Some surf gracefully; some surf more jerkily and perform well. And, of course, some surf like he-men. But to each day every girl who surfs, I give full credit. In my honest opinion, I say that the best girl surfers I’ve ever seen in all my twenty-two years of surfing are: Marge Calhoun, Linda Benson, and Anona Naone. An up-coming little surfer from Hawaii is fifteen-year-old Frances Aona who will be fabulous in a year or two.

I tell you, more and more women are taking up this sport, and I say, “Good!” It’s a darned good sport and I’m glad to see our women enjoying themselves. Yes, women do make good surfers. More and more of them will want to ride the giant waves, and let me tell you—Never underestimate a woman. One day we’ll wake up and find them shaping boards!

BUZZY TRENT ON GIRLS SURFING: "IT'S CERTAINLY BETTER THAN DRINKING IN TAVERNS OR WALKING THE STREET" (1963)

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