THESE LISTS ARE STUPID, BUT PLAY ALONG: WHERE WOULD YOU PUT GREENOUGH?

As part of a SURFER magazine survey a few years back, I was asked to rank, in order, the 10 greatest surfers of all time. I put George Greenough on top, even though I suppose what I wanted to say is that Greenough is the most influential, or the most progressive. Something more specific. “Greatest” is…