KIMO HOLLINGER: THE LAST BIG WAVE

Nothing about this job interests me more than throwing light into the ever-grinding tectonic-plate furrow where surfing meets the rest of life. All our heartfelt stories about learning to surf, about the thrills and adventures, the perfect waves, the hairball moments—don't get me wrong, I love that stuff too. I gather and organize and deal out those moments here on EOS eight hours a day, and reade...

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