EXCERPT: “THE LAST WAVE,” FROM GREG NOLL’S “DA BULL: LIFE OVER THE EDGE” (1989)

This is the opening chapter from Greg Noll’s 1989 autobiography, Da Bull: Life Over the Edge. It has been shortened and lightly edited. *  *  * In many ways, the winter of ’69 was the peak of my life. I was 32. I had a built a successful career of surfing and making surfboards. Although…