LONG READ: “LAIRD HAMILTON: LAST MAN STANDING,” BY DAN DUANE

Dan Duane's profile on Laird Hamilton ran in the July 2004 issue of Men's Journal magazine.

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On that warm Tahitian morning four years ago—the morning that made surfing history—Laird Hamilton drifted alone, head bowed, preparing to do what he’d been doing since childhood: feed his demons with an act of suicidal physical courage. It had been a costly way of life — scars covered his body and his second marriage was unraveling — but Laird seemed happy, with a breeze off the green mou...