“RIDING THE SURF IN HAWAII,” by ALEXANDER HUME FORD

This article ran in the August 14, 1909, issue of Collier's magazine. Author Alexander Hume Ford is best known in the surfing world as the founder of the Outrigger Canoe Club, and for launching writer Jack London into the surf at Waikiki in 1907. 

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There are long rolling billows on both of our [American] coasts where surfboard-riding may be indulged in. It has been done at Atlantic City, and is being taught by a Hawaiian youth in southern California, but it is in Hawaii that the w...