“THE ART OF WAVE RIDING,” BY RON DRUMMOND (FULL-LENGTH)

The Art of Wave Riding, Ron Drummond’s self-published 26-page bodysurfing primer, came out in 1931 and is often described as the first surfing book. It features an illustrated cover and just over a dozen black-and-white photographs. Only 500 copies of Wave Riding were ever printed. Drummond, 24 at the time of publication, was tall (6’…