"THERE ARE OTHER CHRISTMAS ISLANDS IN THE LIVES OF MEN," BY DAVE PARMENTER (1994)

This article ran in the Fall 1994 issue of The Surfer's Journal. It has been slightly edited and shortened. Surf and lineup photos by Bernie Baker. * * * My wetsuit was frozen to the ground. I pulled it from the frosted grass with a ripping Velcro sound and shook the powdery dandruff of frost away. Neoprene rigor mortis. I threw the suit onto the fence with disgust and sat down on the porch whe...

Subscribe or Login

Plans start at $5, cancel anytimeTrouble logging-in? Contact us.