"A ROYAL SPORT," JACK LONDON'S OPERATIC ODE TO SURFING

Jack London's widely-read surfing essay, originally titled "Riding the South Seas Surf," was published in a 1907 issue of Women's Home Companion. In Cruise of the Snark, London's 1911 travel book, it was retitled "A Royal Sport." * * * That is what it is, a royal sport for the natural kings of earth. The grass grows right down to the water at Waikiki Beach, and within fifty feet of the everlasti...

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