American novelist Herman Melville (1819–1891) went to sea at age 18 as a merchant marine, worked on a whaler, served with the U.S. Navy, lived with a native tribe in the Marquesas, and was jailed in Tahiti as a mutineer. He began writing after his return to New York. "Mardi: and a Voyage Thither" was published in 1849, two years before "Moby Dick," Melville's seafaring masterpiece. "Mardi" sold poorly and earned mostly poor reviews, although one critic lauded the book for its “fanciful descriptions of nature amid all her variations.”

Chapter 90, “Rare Sport at Ohonoo,” opens with the book’s narrator aboard a whaler as it approaches a fictitious South Seas island, along with shipmates Braid-Beard, and Media, king of the Mardi island chain.

Approached from the northward, Ohonoo, midway cloven down to the sea, one half a level plain; the other, three mountain terraces—Ohonoo looks like the first steps of a gigantic way to the sun. And such, if Braid-Beard spoke truth, it had formerly been.

“Ere Mardi was made,” said that true old chronicler, “Vivo, one of the genii, built a ladder of mountains whereby to go up and go down. And of this ladder, the island of Ohonoo was the base. But wandering here and there, incognito in a vapor, so much wickedness did Vivo spy out that in high dudgeon he hurried up his ladder, knocking the mountains from under him as he went. These here and there fell into the lagoon, forming many isles, now green and luxuriant; which, with those sprouting from seeds dropped by a bird from the moon, comprise all the groups in the reef.”

Surely, oh, surely, I shall not forget the sight that greeted us, as we drew nigh the shores of this same island of Ohonoo; for was not all Ohonoo bathing in the surf of the sea?

Where eastward the ocean rolls surging against the outer reef of Mardi, there, facing a floodgate in the barrier, stands cloven Ohonoo; her plains sloping outward to the sea, her mountains a bulwark behind. Wild billows from seaward roll in upon its cliffs; charge hotly into the lagoon, and fall on the isle like an army from the deep. But charge they ever so boldly, and charge they forever, old Ohonoo gallantly throws them back till all before her is scud and rack.

Without the break in the reef, wide banks of coral shelve off, creating the bar, where the waves muster for the onset, thundering in water-bolts, that shake the whole reef, till its very spray trembles. And then is it that the swimmers of Ohonoo most delight to gambol in the surf.

For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in length; the width of a man’s body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.

Ranged on the beach, the bathers by hundreds dash in, and diving under the swells, make straight for the outer sea, pausing not till the comparatively smooth expanse beyond has been gained. Here, throwing themselves upon their boards, tranquilly they wait for a billow that suits. Snatching them up, it hurries them landward, volume and speed both increasing, till it races along a watery wall, like the smooth, awful verge of Niagara. Hanging over this scroll, looking down from it as from a precipice, the bathers halloo; every limb in motion to preserve their place on the very crest of the wave. Should they fall behind, the squadrons that follow would whelm them; dismounted, and thrown forward, as certainly would they be run over by the steed they ride. ’Tis like charging at the head of cavalry: you must on.

An expert swimmer shifts his position on his plank; now half striding it; and anon, like a rider in the ring, poising himself upright in the scud, coming on like a man in the air.

At last all is lost in scud and vapor, as the overgrown billow bursts like a bomb. Adroitly emerging, the swimmers thread their way out; and like seals at the Orkneys, stand dripping upon the shore.

Landing in smooth water, some distance from the scene, we strolled forward; and meeting a group resting, inquired for Uhia, their king. He was pointed out in the foam. But presently drawing nigh, he embraced Media, bidding all welcome.

The bathing over, and evening at hand, Uhia and his subjects repaired to their canoes; and we to ours.

Landing at another quarter of the island, we journeyed up a valley called Monlova, and were soon housed in a very pleasant retreat of our host.

Soon supper was spread. But though the viands were rare, and the red wine went round and round like a foaming bay horse in the ring; yet we marked, that despite the stimulus of his day’s good sport, and the stimulus of his brave good cheer, Uhia our host was moody and still.

Said Babbalanja, “My lord, he fills wine cups for others to quaff.”

But whispered King Media, “Though Uhia be sad, be we merry, merry men.”

And merry some were, and merrily went to their mats.

1849: “RARE SPORT AT OHONOO,” BY HERMAN MELVILLE

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