“HOW I BEGAN,” EXCERPT FROM MIDGET FARRELLY’S “THIS SURFING LIFE” (1965) 4/16/23

This Surfing Life, Midget Farrelly’s first book coauthored with Craig McGregor, was published in Australia in 1965, and republished two years later in America, as The Surfing Life. The excerpt below has been slightly edited.  *   *   * I suppose my first ride on a surfboard, if you could call it that, happened when I…