Timothy Hurley's article on the disappearance of big-wave surfer Alec Cooke, aka Ace Cool, ran in the October 30 edition of the Honolulu Star-Advertiser. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Veteran big-wave surfer Alec “Ace Cool” Cooke is notorious for fearlessly—some would say recklessly—surfing the North Shore at night in recent years. “He’s a wild man,” said “Banzai” Betty Depol...
Mike Perry's article on Peter Drouyn's 1985-'86 visit to China ran in the June 1987 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Peter Drouyn is no rookie, he is still one of Australia’s most gifted wave riders. He surfs every day on a four-year-old board of his own design. He’s fit. His board is strange and there are people who think he could probably still be in the Top Si...
Damien Murphy's article about Peter Drouyn's upcoming visit to China was published in the October 10th issue of the Age newspaper. * * * The People’s Republic of China wants to go surfing and has imported an Australian surfer to teach its youngsters how to ride waves. Gold Coast surfer Peter Drouyn, 35, a former Australian senior and junior surfboard champion, has left to coach the finer po...
"A Boy's Paradise in the Pacific," by Alexander Hume Ford, ran in the August issue of St. Nicolas, a popular New York-based children's magazine published from 1873 to 1943. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Hawaii is the land of sports for boys and girls. Approach Honolulu by steamer, and at first sight of the breakers on the reef, the eye is arrested by little specks upon the wav...
"To Shoot Surf Here on Board: A.D. Keech, of Honolulu, gives Exhibition of Tropical Sport Tonight," an uncredited article, ran on the front page of the July 28, 1910, edition of the Press of Atlantic City. * * * At the request of the manager of the Hawaiian Exhibit here, Alvin D. Keech, of Honolulu, Hawaii, a student here in this country, will give an exhibition of surf-board riding, the fam...
"Surf-Riding, Eastern Sport" ran in the September 25, 1909, edition of the Honolulu Advertiser. It was taken from a letter Outrigger Canoe Club founder Alexander Hume Ford wrote to the paper, dated September 11, sent from New York. Hawaiian-born musician Alvin Keech would later become famous for popularizing (and possibly inventing) the banjo-uke, or banjolele. * * * Alvin Keech from Hawaii i...
"Profile: Michael Ho," by Reno Abellira, ran in the January 1978 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * In the highly pressure-sensitive world of professional surf contests, especially the events that take place on the North Shore, to be a winner often means that a surfer must harness more than sheer determination, skill, and guts. In the water, he’s got to be more “on,”...
"Long Soggy Saga," Tom Morey's story about making a surfboard from cardboard, ran in the Fall 1993 issue of Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * It was 1965, the middle of November, and a typical dreary morning. I was working out of Ventura, California (going broke actually), trying to build surfboards from a tiny metal shed at the north end of Santa Clara Street. No...
"Nixon Saw Me Naked," by Steve Heilig, ran in the July 1996 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Way back in 1973, President Richard Nixon was starting to have a bit of trouble back East. Watergate, Vietnam, and so on were making life tough for Tricky Dick. But in right-wing Republican Orange County, Southern California, he was still King—except among us stoned high s...
"Florsheims in the Sand," by Drew Kampion, was first published in the June 2021 issue of Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * When John Severson hired me as associate editor of SURFER magazine in the spring of 1968, he didn’t much know what he was getting into, nor did I. I was a “communications” man with an English degree working at the new Wall Street Journal pro...