Category: eos-blog

SURF GUIDE’S “FIRST ANNUAL BUYER’S GUIDE” (1964)

This article ran in the September 1964 issue of Surf Guide magazine. It has been edited and shortened. To get a better look at the guide pages, below, drag each image from EOS to your desktop. *  *  * The Buyers’ Guide was designed as a service both to the surfboard industry and to the...

“SHOP TALK,” BY SAM GEORGE (1989)

This article ran in the December 1989 issue of Surfing magazine. *  *  * I used to think that if I died and went to heaven, it would look like a surf shop. And I’m sure I wasn’t alone; surf shops have been hallowed ground since 1951, when irate city fathers rooted Dale Velzy out...

JOAN DIDION REVIEWS “RIDE THE WILD SURF” FOR VOGUE (1964)

Joan Didion’s short review of Ride the Wild Surf ran in the November 1, 1964, issue of Vogue.  *  *  * I have recently fallen under the spell of teen surfing movies, an enthusiasm I should probably try to pass off as sociological. In fact, they amuse me. Of the current crop, I am pleased...

“BODYSURFING THE PIPELINE,” CANDY CALHOUN, SURF GUIDE (1964)

This article originally ran in the July 1964 issue of Surf Guide. This version has been slightly edited. Candy Calhoun won the 1963 West Coast Surfing Surfing Championships and placed 3rd in the 1965 World Championships. In August 1962, Calhoun and Nancy Corfman became the first two women to bodysurf the Wedge.   *  *  * ...

“DRESSED TO CHILL” – SURFER POLL ’98

Matt Warshaw’s “Dressed to Chill” article ran in the August 1999 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited.  *  *  *  There isn’t much traction up there on the surf fashion catwalk, and for every surfer able to prance across with dash and flair, hundreds more tumble off like they’re wearing Vaseline flip-flops....

FORT POINT ’73: A SURFER-POLICE AFFAIR GOES ON THE ROCKS

California-born surfer Brian Tissot is a marine biologist, author and professor. This article was originally posted in 2016 on Tissot’s “Dr. Abalone” website.   *  *  *  Early 1973. Awakened by stones hitting my window, I grab my clock. Wow, it’s 5 AM. And a school day too! I grab my board and wetsuit, pile into...

TOM MOREY’S BURIAL WISHES: “IMAGINE ME AND I EXIST FOR YOU”

Tom Morey wrote his burials wishes in 2016. Moon and Sol, mentioned below, are Morey’s sons. *  *  * I wish to be buried in strict accordance with Baha’i Teachings. Most certainly NOT CREMATED, a shock to the soul. Specifically, not my soul, regarded as though it were an appendage (like say a gizzard). Rather...

“JAZZ MAN,” TOM MOREY PROFILE BY STEVE BARILOTTI (1996)

“Jazz Man: Tom Morey: the Man Who Gave Waves to the World,” by Steve Barilotti, ran in the April 1996 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly shortened and edited.  *  *  *  OCTOBER 1993 So we’re huddled under this overpass out in the middle of the Godforsaken desert west of Yuma somewhere,...

“GOING THROUGH THE PHASES,” DRU HARRISON ON SPEED SURFING (1969)

Dru Harrison’s “SURFER Tips” article on speed surfing ran in the May 1969 issue of SURFER Magazine. “Speed surfing” was invented by Joey Cabell a year or so earlier, the result of Cabell trying to bring his downhill skiing experience to bear on his wave-riding. The concept was squishy at best, and never caught on,...

SMIRNOFF 1974: “IT LEAVES YOU BREATHLESS,” BY RENO ABELLIRA

Reno Abellira’s article about his 1974 Smirnoff Pro win originally ran in the March 1975 issue of Surfer. This version has been slightly edited.  *  *  * The kona weather finally broke. A gnarly northeast swell was coming in with an exaggerated push to it. Totally flushing through the outside peaks at Sunset, the waves...

“A GOMES FAMILY SAGA,” BY BOB COOPER (2012)

“A Gomes Family Saga,” by Bob Cooper, ran in the August 2012 issue of Surfer’s Journal. This version has been shortened and slightly edited.  *  *  *  Once again, I direct our focus to the Velzy and Jacobs shop on the border of Venice and Playa del Rey, where the usual suspects from South Bay...

“WHY BLACKS DON’T SURF,” BY EARL OFARI, H20 MAGAZINE (1979)

“Why Blacks Don’t Surf” ran in the Summer 1979 issue of L0s Angeles-based H20 magazine. Writer Earl Ofari, 24, was then the Public Affairs Director for radio station KPFK, and has since written more than a dozen books on race, culture, and politics. This text below has been slightly edited.   *  *  *  “I was...

PAUL GEBAUER, 1964: “WHAT DOES THE CONTEST PROVE?”

“What Does the Contest Prove?” ran in the December 28, 1964, issue of the Honolulu Advertiser, during the same week at the annual Makaha International Surfing Championships. Roger Pepper, columnist for the Advertiser, wrote a short intro noting that “there are some who feel that it is bad to exploit surfing in the form of...

WORLD CONTEST METHOD AND MADNESS IN THE ’60s AND ’70s

This year marks the first time in the pro surfing era where the men’s and women’s world titles will be determined not by a surfer’s aggregate point total over an entire season, as has been the case since 1976. Instead, the top five men and top five women surfers, as ranked over the course of...