Category: eos-blog

THE 2022 EOS FUNDRAISER: BUILDING THE FUTURE OF SURF HISTORY

A letter from Matt Warshaw, Executive Director of Encyclopedia of Surfing. Hello surfers and all lovers of surf culture. The 2022 Encyclopedia of Surfing fundraiser is ON (December 12 – 21), and if that alone is enough to trigger your philanthropic reflex, click here to donate and here to subscribe or buy a gift sub....

2022 EOS FUNDRAISER

A letter from Matt Warshaw, Executive Director of Encyclopedia of Surfing. Hello surfers and lovers of surf culture. The 2022 Encyclopedia of Surfing fundraiser is ON (December  – 16), and if that is enough to trigger the credit-card extension reflex,  click here to donate, and here to subscribe or buy a gift sub. The main...

“AMPLIFIED: RICHIE COLLINS PROFILE,” SURFER PROFILE (1989)

“Amplified,” by Matt Warshaw, ran in the January 1989 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited. *  *  * Two months ago in these pages, Richie Collins seemed to give a dying era the final boot when he said, “I’m not a soul surfer—I only surf for competition.” Maybe he means it. Maybe...

“ROUGH CUT: SURFING ON FILM,” by MATT WARSHAW (1998)

Matt Warshaw’s feature on the history of surfing in the movies ran in the Winter 1998 issue of Surfer’s Journal. This version has been slightly edited. *   *   * The Bridge Theater audience pulled together for the San Francisco premier of In God’s Hands and turned the evening into a minor event, the high point coming...

“IS SURFING HIP?” by SAM GEORGE (1998)

“Is Surfing Hip?” by Sam George, ran in the June 1998 issue of Surfer. This version has been slightly edited. *   *   * In a world of MTV Sports, X Games and Mountain Dew commercials, with Spandexed sky divers hopping out of planes with video cameras on their heads, with brain-dead bungee-jumpers falling off bridges...

“CROSSROADS,” TONY MONIZ PROFILE BY DEREK HYND (1991)

Derek Hynd’s profile on Tony Moniz ran in the March 1991 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly edited. *   *   * Near a decade back, Tony Moniz hooked into a twelve-footer at the Pipeline Masters—the type of wave that misses Second Reef and viciously stacks and stacks again in apex shifts. He...

“THE NEW ADAM,” MERV LARSON PROFILE BY DREW KAMPION (1970)

Drew Kampion’s profile on Santa Barbara’s futuristic wave-ski rider Merv Larson ran in the May 1970 issue of SURFER. This version has been slightly edited.  *   *   * You can see for yourself when Rincon is breaking good, or Secos or Huntington when they’re on. He works out through the lineup on his butt, sitting...

“MYSTERY ACHIEVEMENT,” DAMIEN HARDMAN PROFILE BY PHIL JARRATT (1988)

Phil Jarratt’s profile on newly-crowned world champion Damien Hardman ran in the September 1988 issue of SURFER Magazine.  *   *   * Never having met Damien Hardman—the man who would soon become world champion—I asked around about him. “He’s kinda like Simon Anderson in his approach to life,” said one person. “It’s that Narrabeen thing, I...

“GIDGET GIRLS,” NEWSWEEK (2002)

Devon Gordon’s feature on the original female Malibu surfers ran in the August 19, 2002, issue of Newsweek. *    *    * There were a few guys in the water at Malibu that Vicki Flaxman just wouldn’t mess with, even if they did cut her off in the lineup or snake her on a...

COL SMITH OF NARRABEEN: “I’M GOING FOR THE BIG ONE!”

The following is an excerpt from Sean Doherty’s 2021 book, “Golden Daze: Australia Surfing, Then to Now.” This version has been slightly edited   *   *   *  Col Smith had just been asked in a 1977 Tracks interview if his surfing revolved around pulling off ‘gravity-defying stunts’. Col wasn’t sure if the interviewer was taking the...

“SMITTY: THE NEW COL SMITH,” BY RORY RUSSELL (1977)

Smitty: the New Col Smith, by Rory Russell, ran in the May 1978 issue of SURFER, when Smith was 21. This version has been slightly edited. *  *  *  While traveling through Australia last year competing on the pro circuit, I had the opportunity to get acquainted with an energetic young man who is one...

“PAM’S MAKING WAVES IN THE SURF WORLD,” SYDNEY SUN-HEARALD (1980)

“Pam’s Making Waves in the Surf World,” uncredited, ran in the March 9, 1980, Sydney Sun-Herald. This version has been slightly edited.    *  *  *  At 14, schoolgirl Pam Burridge is being hailed as the best female surfboard rider in Australia. It’s a tag that doesn’t sit easily on this shy young lady. She’s...

“PAM AND THE PASHIONS,” EXCERPT FROM PAM BURRIDGE BIOGRAPHY (1992)

This chapter from “Pam Burridge,” a 1992 biography by sports historian and academic Marian Stell, takes place in 1984. Although still just 18, Pam had been surfing in professional events for three years and had been touted as a future world champion since middle school. Her world title bid the previous year was abruptly halted...

“SOUTH SWELL,” MAALAEA ARTICLE BY YURI FARRANT (1973)

Yuri Farrant’s article about “the biggest [summer swell] I had seen in four years” ran in the November 1972 issue of SURFER. After a day spent surfing and shooting maxed-out Ala Moana, Farrant, along with Reno Abellira, Jeff Hakman, and photographer Steve Wilkings, decide to catch an interisland flight the following morning to Maui, in...