death and surfing

There are reasons why surfing has a reputation as a deadly activity. Surfers die in movies (Point Break, In God's Hands) and novels (The Ninth Wave, Dogs of Winter), and the sport often turns up on (non-statistical) "most dangerous" lists online. When Hawaii's Mark Foo drowned while surfing Maverick's in 1994, the story was covered at length in the New York TimesOutside, and Rolling Stone, and was featured on network news. In addition, people who live away from the coast are frequently afra...