Doerner, Darrick

Terse big-wave surfer from Hawaii; a top performer at Waimea Bay from the early '80s to the early '90s, and one of the original tow surfers. Doerner was born (1957) in Fresno, California, the son of a French-born mother and a former Santa Barbara County lifeguard, and began surfing at age five. Moving often after his parents divorced, Doerner lived in Texas, Maine, North Carolina, France, and Los Angeles, before settling on the North Shore of Oahu in 1975 at age 18; the following year he beca...