Dorian, Shane

Versatile pro surfer from Hawaii's Big Island; world-ranked #4 in 2000; consensus pick as his generation's best paddle-in big-wave surfer. "He knows exactly what he wants, and who he is," close friend Kelly Slater said, describing Shane Dorian. "Yet he has this strange desire to flirt with things he shouldn't go near."

Dorian was born (1972) and raised in Kona, Hawaii, the son of a restaurateur and former Hollywood stunt double, and began surfing at age five. He was a menehune division final...