Erickson, Roger

War-scarred big-wave surfer originally from Virginia Beach, Virginia; among the first to ride Hawaii's Kaena Point in 1976, and a competitor in the 1986 and 1990 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau contests at Waimea Bay.

Erickson learned to surf at 15, after moving with his family to West Los Angeles. In 1966, at age 18, he joined the Marine Corps, and sailed for Vietnam two days after his honeymoon. Just weeks after landing, Erickson saved the life of a fellow Marine who had stepped on a m...