Erickson, Roger

War-scarred big-wave surfer originally from Long Southern California; among the first to ride Hawaii's Kaena Point in 1976, and a competitor in the 1986 and 1990 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau contests at Waimea Bay. "Along with Darrick Doerner, Ken Bradshaw, and the late Mark Foo, Roger charged everything that rolled into the Bay during the '70s and '80s," Jason Borte wrote in 2000.

Erickson was born (1948) in Long Beach, grew up in Playa del Rey, and learned to surf at 15. Three years...