Hollinger, Kimo

Contemplative big-wave rider from Honolulu, Hawaii; a finalist in the 1965 Duke Kahanamoku Invitational who 10 years later became an eloquent anticontest crusader. Hollinger was born (1939) and raised in Honolulu, the son of a fireman, began surfing at age 16, and by the end of the decade was one of the best native-born riders in the heavy surf at Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay.

Helped in part by his appearances in surf movies like Barefoot Adventure (1960) and Surfing Hollow Days (1962), Holli...