Jackman, Dave (1940 – 2014)

Bluff and matey 1960s big-wave surfer from Sydney, Australia. Jackman was born (1940) and raised in the beachfront Sydney suburb of Manly Beach, and began surfing at age 12. He was a 21-year-old surfboard factory worker when he took on the Queenscliff Bombora, a much-feared reefbreak on Sydney's northside, on June 6, 1961.

As the slender, blond-haired Jackman knee-paddled alone into the 15-foot surf, word spread quickly. "It was common knowledge in the local surfing fraternity that Jacko was...