Long, Greg

Gracious and articulate big-wave surfer from San Clemente, California; Big Wave Tour champion in 2012 and 2015-16; winner of the 2009 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Contest at Waimea Bay, as well as the 2012 Big Wave Tour; five-time Billabong XXL award winner. ESPN's Jake Howard called Long "the best big-wave rider of the 21st Century."

Long was born (1983) in San Clemente, the son of a California State Park Lifeguard father, grew up in a small house at San Clemente State Beach, began s...