Paskowitz, Dorian

Enduring, charismatic Southern California surfer; runner-up in theĀ 1941 Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships; founder of the Paskowitz Surf Camp; lifelong advocate for improved health and diet among surfers, and a staunch believer in the health benefits of surfing itself. "When he's away from the ocean he's an old man," Paskowitz's wife said in 1990, looking at her then-68-year-old husband. "He's a boy when he surfs."

Paskowitz was born (1921) and raised in Galveston, Texas, and began sur...