race, racism and surfing

While sexism and homophobia have long been surf culture hallmarks, the sport for the most part has been ahead of the social curve on racism. San Diego-raised surf photographer Aaron Chang, for example, said he was treated "viciously" in the schoolyard during the early 1970s for being Asian, and said surfing became the most important thing in his life in large part because "there was no racism in the water, just ability." This is likely due to the fact that the sport was conceived and to a gre...