religion and surfing

Religion played a significant role in the surfing lives of ancient Polynesians: tree trunks were prayed over before they were shaped into surfboards, surf-dedicated temples were built (suggesting that there was a god unique to surfing, although the deity's name remains unknown), waves were called forth with chants and prayers, and competing surfers always made offerings prior to entering the water.

Calvinist Christianity trumped native religion in Hawaii in the 19th century as the islands ca...