Van Dyke, Fred

Bright, friendly, outspoken big-wave rider from Haleiwa, Hawaii; one of the first surfers, in the mid-'50s, to move permanently from California to the North Shore. Van Dyke was born (1929) in San Francisco, California, the son of a dentist, and learned to bodysurf as a teenager along the San Francisco-area beaches, but didn't ride stand-up until 1950, at age 20. He earned a double major B.A. in creative writing and physical education from San Francisco State in 1953, and later that year recei...