"Improved Hollow Surfboard for All-Around Sport" ran in the June 1939 issue of Popular Science. The text below is slightly edited and shortened, and some of the fractions have been converted to decimals.

Native Hawaiians taught Tom Blake to ride the waves, but he wasn't satisfied with their crude boards. After years of experimenting, he developed the modern hollow surfboard, now used not only by the beachboys of Waikiki, but by swimmers throughout the world. Here, Blake tells us how to make his latest model, for paddling, aquaplaning, sailing, or rescue work


Use white cedar, mahogany, spruce, redwood, or white pine as follows:
- two pieces, .75" x 3.75" by 14' for rails
- two pieces, .75" x 1.55" x 14' for battens
- two pieces, '75" x 5" x 8' for ribs
- one piece, 1.75" x 16.25" x 17" for bow block
- one piece, 2.25" x 3" x 8" for stern block
- four pieces, 25" x 12" x 13' 9" for planking (if 12"-wide wood is not available, quarter-inch waterproof plywood or eighth-inch pressed composition wood of tempered quality may be used instead


- 18 No. 12 flathead brass screws, 2" long
- 4.5 gross No. 6 flathead brass screws, three-quarters-inch long
- one pint marine glue
- 90' thin cloth tape
- brass yacht deck plug
- one quart spar varnish

Cut and shape the stern and bow blocks. Make notches as indicated for the top and bottom battens. Prepare the ribs, following the table for dimensions. The bottom of the ribs is the smooth arc of a circle Cut notches for battens and limber holes; drill 1" holes at intervals across width. Fasten batten to floor or bench with several small nails. Arrange the ribs, flat sides down, starting with No. 10 at the stem. Place side rails with the top or straight sides down. Apply glue to stem block, bring stem ends of rails together, and clamp; then screw rails to stem block. Do the same at the bow. Place the other center batten in position and screw to stem block, ribs, and bow block.

Cut and fit bottom planking. Slightly under-bevel the edges of the rails to ensure a closed seam along the bottom edge of boards. Apply marine glue, place thin cloth tape on all glued surfaces, add another coat of glue, and clamp the bottom planks in place. Screw them down tight. Remove surplus glue with gasoline and fill any cracks with seam putty.

Turn the hull over and coat the inside with paint, varnish, tar, or oil. Fasten the top center batten in place, apply glue and tape as on bottom, and screw down decks after marking the position of the water drain.

Round all edges as much as the material will allow. If the deck screws are countersunk, fill the holes with a compound that will set hard. Bore the drain hole, and use either a brass yacht deck plug or an ordinary cork to close the drain. Sandpaper the entire board thoroughly and apply several coats of spar varnish, sanding lightly between coats. The board may be finished in colors if desired.

If the board is for wave riding, the decks may be of half-inch stock, making the total weight about 90 lb. The weight of the board as shown is about 70 lb.

DIY 1939: BUILD A HOLLOW SURFBOARD

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