This 1969 Surfing magazine article by Margo Godfrey might be the saddest piece of surf writing ever published. Godfrey, 16, was the newly-crowned world champ. She didn't yet have the big-wave chops that would define her career as a professional in years to come, but was already a mile ahead of her contemporaries nonetheless, and still just a high school sophomore. Yet here was, pen in hand, compelled by either a magazine editor or her own dismally internalized need to set an example, taking on the whole low-boiling shitshow of surf-world gender politics. It would have been a big, difficult topic for an adult. No kid should have to touch it; not in public anyway. (Brad McCaul, another hot 16-year-old SoCal surfing phenom, is interviewed in the same magazine, and the conversation goes from board design to surf contests, to more contests, then finishes up with some thoughts on the world contest.) Godfrey's article is titled "Girls: Being Accepted in Surfing"—a five-word sigh, right there—begins with a feeble support of women surfers, then goes full white-flag capitulation, with grooming tips and a call for "good manners" by the girls, then takes a weird detour into macrobiotic nutrition—and it's just a sad 700-word mess.

At first I was sort of pissed off at Margo herself, but not really. You can't be. The pressure she was under—of being the Champ, of being a young teen, of being female in a male-dominated sport during the 1960s. Mimi Munro quit because of it. Surfing was making her too butch, Mimi thought, so she bailed. Margo almost quit, too, but instead just gave up on competition for a few years. Found God, got married, moved to Hawaii, surfed alone. She wasn't exactly a feminist upon returning to the main stage in the mid-'70s, but she sure as shit wasn't going to put a cup-sleeved baby doll dress, like she did above, for a surf mag photo shoot. That indignity, at least, was behind her.

I have grown up in the surfing world. Along the way, I have acquired many feelings and concepts. From my observations, interpretations and opinions, I hope to send a few useful words concerning girl surfers.

Because surfing is a male-oriented sport, the female is definitely confronted with many hardships. These hardships, depending on what degree they affect you, are not overpowering. If you play it the right way, you will be able to flow along and enjoy the world of surfing.

From my experiences, I am inclined to believe that the males who surf don’t like the "average girl surfer.” I have concluded this from remarks I have heard from guys who surf. Some of these remarks were heard five years ago and others just yesterday. It doesn't matter when they were said, remarks do express the attitudes of many male surfers. “Girls are always in the way when they are surfing,” has been just one of the many phrases I have heard over the years. As far as I am concerned, girls are not in the way any more than male surfers. Since it is a "man's sport,” girl surfers are a specific minority group; therefore their presence is more noticeable. The problem of being “in the way” can be overcome by the girl surfer who uses good manners.

Lately, I have also heard comments about girls with super-grubby clothes, who look masculine walking with their surfboards. A person’s clothing has little significance to me, but many guys feel clothing and appearance are important. They like to see girls whose looks, attitudes and actions express the femininity that is within them. Once a girl discontinues to express her femininity and becomes careless about grooming, because of her preoccupation with surfing, she seems to lose a lot of respect. One of the trademarks of a surfer is the knots on his knees, from knee-paddling. They may not seem like much. But on a girl’s legs they are unattractive and hinder your appearance. This is why I have taken care and I hope most girls will also, to prevent surf knots. Last year I went to see a skin doctor who has done a lot of research on knots. He gave me some cream to put on my knees. It worked very well. I used this cream every night before bed. It relaxes and softens the knee area that is used in paddling. This action helps prevent the growth of these surfing knots. Besides cream, any oil that softens and comforts the skin will work.

I’ve also noticed that most male surfers think of the girls in their sport as being heavy and muscular. Heredity determines the structure of your body frame; therefore, some girl surfers may fit this description of being big and muscular. This description, though, isn’t necessarily the general case. One tends to think that if you start surfing you are going to develop large muscles. It is true that surfing and paddling stretch your muscles, but the food you eat is what builds your body and muscles. If you live on a diet of hamburgers, Cokes, pastries, candy, etc., you are depositing calories into your system that lend mostly excess body fats. When you exercise, you are going to work off some of these fats. But some will stay with you, adding extra bulk to your body. Eating natural foods will replenish those cells broken down by constant exercise and will supply you with nourishment to keep you going. The calories, proteins, carbohydrates and fats in natural foods are complete with vitamins and minerals, unlike other foods where man has taken out these essential foods, replacing them with chemicals. With this complete nutrient value of healthy natural foods, you don’t have to eat as much. A few ounces of natural food is a sufficient amount, while almost twice as much processed food is needed to supply the same quantity of nutrition. For this reason, on a natural diet, you are avoiding excess foods which lead to body bulk and thus often result in muscles.

Surfing is such a joyous individual sport. One can be alone while surfing. No matter what, however, the crowds seem to catch up with those who wish to be alone. For this reason, one should be able to get along with other surfers. Taking care of your body with oils and natural foods, good manners and a feminine attitude makes the girl surfer appear friendly and easier to get along with. Besides giving her a more femininely attractive appearance, the girl surfer who seems to care about expressing herself as a girl (or woman) receives more attention from the guys. Many girl surfers feel riding waves is fantastic, but also agree the guys out there with her add a bit more to the good scene of surfing.

"GIRLS: BEING ACCEPTED IN SURFING," BY MARGO GODFREY (1969)

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