History of Surfing

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  • Chapter 1 pre-1900

    Out of the Blue
    Sections
    • Surfing in 1000 BC
    • Viva Caballito!
    • Out of the Blue
    • A Surfboard for Everybody
    • Lono Wept
    • The New God Doesn't Surf
    • A Sport in Decline
  • Chapter 2 1900-1945

    Gliding Return
    Sections
    • A Fine Little Revival
    • Jack London Loves Purple
    • California: The New Frontier
    • Beachboy Life
    • Duke Kahanamoku
    • Surf Shooting Down Under
    • The Bronzed Islander Shows How
    • Surfing in the Jazz Age
    • Tom Blake Redesigns the Sport
    • What Depression?
    • When Clubbies Ruled Australia
    • Surfboard as Woodcraft
    • Palos Verdes Surf Club
    • San Onofre: the Nearest Faraway Place
    • Riding the Hot Curl
    • Enter Makaha
    • Death at Waimea
    • The Overwhelming North Shore
  • Chapter 3 1945-late 1950s

    Malibu Swing
    Sections
    • Freezing the Moment with Doc Ball
    • A Touch of Glamour
    • Bob Simmons, Gnarled Genius
    • Darrylin, Oh Darrylin
    • The Magic Wave
    • Velzy's Pig
    • Dewey Weber, Hotdog Jesus
    • Tubesteak Abides
    • A Rebel for All Seasons
    • The Valley Cometh
    • Hawaii Calls
    • Rocket to Makaha
    • Buzzy Trent, King of Beasts
    • Surfing's Beat Generation
    • France and Peru Join In
    • A Restart for Australia
    • A Farewell to Clubs
    • Bud Browne Presents
    • Point Surf '58
    • The Viking King of Mead Hall
    • An Exorcism at Waimea
  • Chapter 4 late 1950s-1967

    Ten-Year Boom
    Sections
    • Gidget the All-Powerful
    • The Rebel Next Door
    • Hobie vs Velzy vs the IRS
    • Better Surfing Through Chemistry
    • Summer on the Inside
    • Surf Fashion, Lightly Salted
    • Surfing the Newsstand
    • Process of Elimination
    • Oil City Showdown
    • The Jazz Stylings of Phil Edwards
    • Technicolor Surf Boom
    • Heroes and Villains
    • Blackball Blues
    • Dick Dale, Destroyer of Amps
    • Surfing in Five-Part Harmony
    • Tokyo to Tel Aviv
    • Flight of the Larrikin
    • Bob Evans Means Business
    • Midget Wins It All
    • But Will it Play in New York?
    • Houses of the Holy
    • We Own the Sidewalks
    • Beautiful from any Angle
    • Duke's Big Contest
    • Can You Handle the Penetrator?
    • Girls, Don't Panic!
    • David Nuuhiwa Walks on Water
    • An Invincible Summer
  • Chapter 5 1967-1974

    Barefoot Revolution
    Sections
    • Revolution is not a Dinner Party
    • The Tao of George
    • Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish
    • Bismarck with a Tan
    • Plastic Machine
    • Enlightenment at Honolua Bay
    • Panic on the Showroom Floor
    • Style Takes a Dive
    • Everybody Must Get Stoned
    • Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas
    • No Contest
    • There Will be Slaps
    • Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax
    • Blame it on the Boogie
    • Country Soul
    • Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon
    • Fresh Blood on the Newsstand
    • Long Road to Bells Beach
    • Speed Freaks
    • Gods of Thunder
    • The Rubberman Cometh
    • The Impossible Wave
    • Into the Vortex
    • Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker
  • Chapter 6 1970s-1980

    The Fortune Seekers
    Sections
    • Road to Santosha
    • The Kevin and Craig Show
    • Hippie Trail Gold
    • At Play in the Fields of Allah
    • Career Move
    • Grand Prix Dream
    • Follow the Money
    • Big in Japan
    • Rabbit's Big Adventure
    • Shaun Tomson's Tunnel Vision
    • South Africa in Black and White
    • Mark Richards, Gentleman Killer
    • Two Fins, More Wins
    • The Divine Miss M
  • Chapter 7 1981-1991

    Long Division
    Sections
    • Return of the Longboard
    • Simon Anderson and his Mighty Thruster
    • Surf and Destroy
    • Terror from Below
    • The Unsinkable Tom Carroll
    • An Explosion of Talent
    • Tom Curren's Mile of Style
    • How to Turn a Circus into a Riot
    • I Predict Waves in Your Future
    • Cult of the Surf Photographer
    • Video Killed the Surf Movie
    • Waves for Sale
    • Surf Boom Redux
    • Terminally Hip
    • Super-Sizing the World Tour
    • Somebody Should Do Something
    • Surfers vs Apartheid
    • Make Room at the Top, Obrigado!
    • The Last Big Wave
    • Eddie Aikau's State of Grace
    • A Beloved Rival
  • Chapter 8 1990-2015

    The Ride of Your Life
    Sections
    • Is Surfing Hip?
    • Lisa Andersen Surfs Better Than You
    • Killer Cute
    • Kelly Slater is Just Warming Up
    • Rebel for Hire
    • I Believe I Can Fly
    • A Monster in Half Moon Bay
    • Mark Foo's Last Ride
    • Open Throttle
    • Laird Means Lord
    • Tahitian Scream
    • A Webcam for Every Wave
    • Last Call for Print Media
    • Taylor Steele Likes it Rough
    • Searching for the Perfect Phrase
    • Hollywood Tries Again
    • Thirty is the New Twenty
    • Andy Irons' Poetic Fury
    • The Beast and Beyond
    • A Dance with the Past
    • Foam is Dead, Long Live Foam
    • Nature Gets a Makeover
    • Surf in a Box
    • The End of History
Chapter 1:

Out of the Blue

  • Surfing in 1000 BC /
  • Viva Caballito! /
  • Out of the Blue /
  • A Surfboard for Everybody /
  • Lono Wept /
  • The New God Doesn't Surf /
  • A Sport in Decline /
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