A Beloved Rival

Incredibly, just weeks after Leonard Brady wrote his 1982 "Whatever Happened to Big-Wave Riding?" article for Surfer, the North Pacific let loose with the greatest run of big-wave surf on record—seven huge pulses arrived at one-week intervals from mid-February to early March. One journal-keeping North Shore veteran later reported that the Waimea Bay was 20-feet or bigger 23 times that season, which was roughly equal to the previous five years combined.

In response to the run of big waves duri...

At Sunset Beach, Bradshaw appointed himself as a kind of on-the-spot hanging judge. Mess with one of his waves and you’d be chased down afterward and ordered to dismount so that the huge Texan could palm-smash a fin off your board and order you to leave the water. Nobody resisted.