George Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown, and a few other Waikiki surfers were all riding finned boards at Makaha by the end of 1951 and stroking with confidence into fifteen-foot-plus waves. The new equipment was fast and stable, and miles ahead of the hot curl in terms of bite and stability. If the boards weren’t all that maneuverable, it didn’t really matter. A high, tight, cleaving line to deliver you from the Point through to the Bowl on the heaviest wave of the day—that’s what matter...
Chapter 3:
Malibu Swing
- Freezing the Moment with Doc Ball /
- A Touch of Glamour /
- Bob Simmons, Gnarled Genius /
- Darrylin, Oh Darrylin /
- The Magic Wave /
- Velzy's Pig /
- Dewey Weber, Hotdog Jesus /
- Tubesteak Abides /
- A Rebel for All Seasons /
- The Valley Cometh /
- Hawaii Calls /
- Rocket to Makaha /
- Buzzy Trent, King of Beasts /
- Surfing's Beat Generation /
- France and Peru Join In /
- A Restart for Australia /
- A Farewell to Clubs /
- Bud Browne Presents /
- Point Surf '58 /
- The Viking King of Mead Hall /
- An Exorcism at Waimea /
