On Christmas Eve 1981, a 25-year-old wetsuit-clad Monterey County kneeboarder named Lew Boren was pulled from the shallows of Spanish Bay, near Pebble Beach. His corpse was bloodless, with a perfectly symmetrical armpit-to-hip bite taken out of his torso—the work of a 20-foot-long, 4,000-pound white shark. Surfing, again, was in the news. But this time around, the attention didn’t seem particularly sensationalized. Most surfers understood that the odds of getting hit by a shark were statistic...
Chapter 7:
Long Division
- Return of the Longboard /
- Simon Anderson and his Mighty Thruster /
- Surf and Destroy /
- Terror from Below /
- The Unsinkable Tom Carroll /
- An Explosion of Talent /
- Tom Curren's Mile of Style /
- How to Turn a Circus into a Riot /
- I Predict Waves in Your Future /
- Cult of the Surf Photographer /
- Video Killed the Surf Movie /
- Waves for Sale /
- Surf Boom Redux /
- Terminally Hip /
- Super-Sizing the World Tour /
- Somebody Should Do Something /
- Surfers vs Apartheid /
- Make Room at the Top, Obrigado! /
- The Last Big Wave /
- Eddie Aikau's State of Grace /
- A Beloved Rival /
