The shortboard revolution rewrote surfing's performance handbook. The drop-knee cutback, an elegant weight-leveraging move where the surfer bent and lowered his rear leg like a proposing suitor—gone. Parallel-stance trim, gone. Noseriding continued for a year or so, just out of habit, but the shortboard’s thin front end didn’t offer much of a platform, and any noseriding was followed by a quick retreat as the board began pearling. Surfers were inching their way toward the tube, but hadn’t yet...
Chapter 5:
Barefoot Revolution
- Revolution is not a Dinner Party /
- The Tao of George /
- Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish /
- Bismarck with a Tan /
- Plastic Machine /
- Enlightenment at Honolua Bay /
- Panic on the Showroom Floor /
- Style Takes a Dive /
- Everybody Must Get Stoned /
- Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas /
- No Contest /
- There Will be Slaps /
- Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax /
- Blame it on the Boogie /
- Country Soul /
- Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon /
- Fresh Blood on the Newsstand /
- Long Road to Bells Beach /
- Speed Freaks /
- Gods of Thunder /
- The Rubberman Cometh /
- The Impossible Wave /
- Into the Vortex /
- Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker /
Style Takes a Dive
Style-wise, all bets were off. Even the best surfers in the world had were navigating the new terrain with a lot of torso-twisting, leg-pumping, and arm-waving.