It must have dawned on Kahanamoku, at some point during his three-month stay in Australia in 1914 and 1915, that by dodging his own troubles he’d placed himself in the middle of a troubled nation. Halfway into a three-year drought, the country’s entire wheat crop had just failed. Gallipoli’s slaughtering toll on Australian infantrymen was still a few months in the future, but the Great War was underway, and the country had already begun to mark its dead and wounded. Genocide and institutional...
Chapter 2:
Gliding Return
- A Fine Little Revival /
- Jack London Loves Purple /
- California: The New Frontier /
- Beachboy Life /
- Duke Kahanamoku /
- Surf Shooting Down Under /
- The Bronzed Islander Shows How /
- Surfing in the Jazz Age /
- Tom Blake Redesigns the Sport /
- What Depression? /
- When Clubbies Ruled Australia /
- Surfboard as Woodcraft /
- Palos Verdes Surf Club /
- San Onofre: the Nearest Faraway Place /
- Riding the Hot Curl /
- Enter Makaha /
- Death at Waimea /
- The Overwhelming North Shore /
