On a sunny fall morning in 1987, Felipe Pomar of Lima walked into the California offices of Surfer magazine, right on time for his scheduled meeting, ready to talk about a subject guaranteed to put a blank expression on just about any waverider’s face—surfing in ancient Peru. Hawaii, of course, has always been regarded as surfing’s birthplace, but Pomar wanted to propose an alternate theory of the sport’s origins. He was too smart to think he was going to waltz into Surfer and change surfing’...
Chapter 1:
