Out of the Blue

Hawaiian petroglyph, AD 1500

Engraving by Emile Bayard

19th century engraving

18th century Hawaiian chief
Surfing in ancient Hawaii was touched by religion and fantasy, but it was fused to sex, competition, and gambling.
Four thousand years ago, after a long migratory push out of Southeast Asia, settlers arrived in Tonga, Samoa, and eastern Fiji. All the basic forms of Polynesian society and culture were formed here. While regional political power consolidated in Tahiti, expansion continued. Parties of tattooed explorer-warriors and breedable girls loaded onto streamlined twin-hulled voyaging canoes, some up to 15...
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